This document discusses web analytics and search optimization. It provides examples of the types of data that web analytics can track, such as visitor numbers, location, referral sources, and site behavior. The document emphasizes that analytics data needs context to be useful and gives tips for using keywords strategically and making a site more findable to move metrics like conversions and referrals.
This document provides resources and tutorials for digital storytelling. It includes:
- A wiki with copyright-friendly images, audio, video editors, storytelling examples, and more.
- Tips for using programs like iMovie and Windows Movie Maker to remove audio from videos and record narration.
- Ideas for different types of digital stories and ways to scaffold storytelling skills for students.
- Step-by-step instructions for creating digital stories with Photo Story and Movie Maker using Discovery Education videos.
Spinning sector of pakistan Faisal and Reliance mills analysisMaryam Rajpoot
This document provides an analysis of the financial statements of two spinning companies in Pakistan - Faisal Spinning Mills Limited and Reliance Cotton Spinning Mills Limited - over a six year period from 2009-2014.
For Faisal Spinning Mills, various liquidity, activity, leverage and profitability ratios are calculated from the financial statements and trends are examined. The analysis finds that the company has improved its liquidity and maintained average or close to average ratios for activity, leverage and profitability.
Reliance Cotton Spinning Mills is also analyzed using financial ratios calculated from its statements. Cumulative industry analysis is presented and recommendations are provided. The document concludes with references used.
The document discusses the textile industry in India and proposes suggestions to modernize the khadi sector. It recommends setting up a model processing unit at Gandhi Ashram in Barabanki with facilities for fabric processing, garment finishing and stitching. It also suggests constituting a national expert committee to develop a long-term technology-oriented action plan to make the khadi sector more competitive.
The document discusses the increasing computerization and automation of weaving machines. Modern weaving machines use integrated microprocessors to monitor, control, and optimize functions like warp let-off, cloth take-up, and color selection. Touch screens serve as the interface between operators and the machine. Programming and archiving systems allow weaving data and machine settings to be programmed off-site and transferred to machines, shortening resetting times. Computer-aided design and manufacturing systems enable virtual simulation of fabrics and transmission of designs directly to machines.
This presentation summarizes automation in the weaving process. It outlines the topics that will be covered, including introductions to automation, how it is applied to weaving, machine requirements, demands on automation, and benefits. Key features of automation solutions for weaving are digitizing artwork, analyzing fabric faults with X-rays, controlling multiple looms from one computer, designing jacquard patterns digitally, and monitoring processes on looms. Automation is important for the weaving sector to increase efficiency and quality while reducing costs. The presentation concludes that automation allows weaving to be conducted at higher speeds with more intricate patterns and reduced downtime between styles.
(1) O documento lista várias fórmulas matemáticas, incluindo a soma e o produto de termos, cubos e quadrados. (2) Ele também apresenta 5 problemas matemáticos com opções de respostas para serem escolhidas. (3) Os problemas envolvem equações, cálculo de expressões e determinação de valores.
This document discusses web analytics and search optimization. It provides examples of the types of data that web analytics can track, such as visitor numbers, location, referral sources, and site behavior. The document emphasizes that analytics data needs context to be useful and gives tips for using keywords strategically and making a site more findable to move metrics like conversions and referrals.
This document provides resources and tutorials for digital storytelling. It includes:
- A wiki with copyright-friendly images, audio, video editors, storytelling examples, and more.
- Tips for using programs like iMovie and Windows Movie Maker to remove audio from videos and record narration.
- Ideas for different types of digital stories and ways to scaffold storytelling skills for students.
- Step-by-step instructions for creating digital stories with Photo Story and Movie Maker using Discovery Education videos.
Spinning sector of pakistan Faisal and Reliance mills analysisMaryam Rajpoot
This document provides an analysis of the financial statements of two spinning companies in Pakistan - Faisal Spinning Mills Limited and Reliance Cotton Spinning Mills Limited - over a six year period from 2009-2014.
For Faisal Spinning Mills, various liquidity, activity, leverage and profitability ratios are calculated from the financial statements and trends are examined. The analysis finds that the company has improved its liquidity and maintained average or close to average ratios for activity, leverage and profitability.
Reliance Cotton Spinning Mills is also analyzed using financial ratios calculated from its statements. Cumulative industry analysis is presented and recommendations are provided. The document concludes with references used.
The document discusses the textile industry in India and proposes suggestions to modernize the khadi sector. It recommends setting up a model processing unit at Gandhi Ashram in Barabanki with facilities for fabric processing, garment finishing and stitching. It also suggests constituting a national expert committee to develop a long-term technology-oriented action plan to make the khadi sector more competitive.
The document discusses the increasing computerization and automation of weaving machines. Modern weaving machines use integrated microprocessors to monitor, control, and optimize functions like warp let-off, cloth take-up, and color selection. Touch screens serve as the interface between operators and the machine. Programming and archiving systems allow weaving data and machine settings to be programmed off-site and transferred to machines, shortening resetting times. Computer-aided design and manufacturing systems enable virtual simulation of fabrics and transmission of designs directly to machines.
This presentation summarizes automation in the weaving process. It outlines the topics that will be covered, including introductions to automation, how it is applied to weaving, machine requirements, demands on automation, and benefits. Key features of automation solutions for weaving are digitizing artwork, analyzing fabric faults with X-rays, controlling multiple looms from one computer, designing jacquard patterns digitally, and monitoring processes on looms. Automation is important for the weaving sector to increase efficiency and quality while reducing costs. The presentation concludes that automation allows weaving to be conducted at higher speeds with more intricate patterns and reduced downtime between styles.
(1) O documento lista várias fórmulas matemáticas, incluindo a soma e o produto de termos, cubos e quadrados. (2) Ele também apresenta 5 problemas matemáticos com opções de respostas para serem escolhidas. (3) Os problemas envolvem equações, cálculo de expressões e determinação de valores.
This document discusses the application of computers in the textile industry. It provides examples of how computers are used at various stages of the textile design and manufacturing process, including for research, design, production, distribution, and sales. Key applications mentioned include CAD for design, CAM for production control, and CIM for integrated manufacturing support. The roles of word processors, spreadsheets, graphs, and digital photography in design are also summarized.
This document discusses the use of electronics in knitting machines. It provides advantages of electronic control over mechanical control, such as higher speeds, easier programming, and greater versatility. It describes various applications of electronics like stop motions, yarn feeding systems, needle selection, and pattern selection. Microprocessors and computers allow storing large amounts of knitting data and programs. Computerized knitting machines can be programmed to move the carriage and select needles electronically for complex patterns. Overall, electronics have significantly improved knitting machine capabilities and productivity.
Application of information technology in gi kkibrom G
This document discusses the application of information technology in the apparel manufacturing industry. It covers several areas:
1. Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used for pattern making, grading, and marker making to increase efficiency and standardization. Enterprise resource planning (ERP) software integrates various business functions.
2. Production planning software schedules operations and ensures on-time deliveries. Cutting is automated using computer-controlled knives. Sewing is becoming automated through robots.
3. RFID, warehouse management, e-commerce, and retail management systems improve inventory tracking, online sales, and the customer experience. Information technology has significantly increased productivity and quality in the apparel industry.
The document discusses Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) systems and their benefits for the textile and apparel industry. ERP systems integrate key operations like procurement, design, production, marketing, and distribution to help companies operate more efficiently. For the textile industry, ERP can help compress supply chains, improve responsiveness, and allow real-time visibility across global operations. Specific ERP software solutions are presented for the garment industry, along with case studies of companies experiencing increased productivity, cost savings, and improved customer satisfaction after implementing these systems.
This document provides an overview and comparison of different yarn manufacturing techniques, including ring spinning, open-end spinning, compact spinning, vortex spinning, air-jet spinning, and friction spinning. It discusses the key features of each technique in terms of speed, quality of yarn produced, strengths and weaknesses. It aims to study why ring spinning remains widely used and profitable despite newer techniques being faster, as ring spinning can produce high quality yarn at high speeds and is applicable to any material.
This slide contains why application of computer techonology in apparel industry.
We've tried to give some overview in CAD CAM software ,machine in which these are used & the reason for using CAD CAM software.Thank you.
The document provides an overview of the metal spinning process. It discusses the history and classification of different metal spinning techniques. The basic metal spinning process involves clamping a metal blank between a spinning mandrel and follower, and using specially designed tools to form the blank into an axially symmetric product while it rotates at high speeds. Key aspects covered include the mechanics of cone spinning, use of multi-pass spinning for small cone angles, mandrel and tool design, lubricants, common spinning machines, advantages over other forming processes, and applications.
Weaving is a method of fabric production that involves interlacing two sets of threads perpendicular to each other at right angles. Various Philippine ethnic groups produce distinctive textiles using weaving techniques and natural dyes. Ikat weaving involves resist dyeing the warp or weft threads before weaving to create patterns, while fabrics from Kalinga, Bontoc, and other groups feature geometric designs and nature motifs woven with cotton, abaca, or other fibers.
Stanley John Whidden - The military exists to serve the people, to defend the Nation, to protect vital national interests, and to fulfill national military responsibilities. The military recruits, organizes, trains, and equips soldiers, who then protect and serves the nation.
The document provides information on the physical properties of raw cotton including fiber length, fineness, strength, cleanliness, and chemical deposits. It then discusses the components and processes of a blow room line. The key goals of the blow room are to open compressed cotton fibers with minimal damage, remove impurities, and create an evenly blended sliver. Common blow room machines include bale openers, mixers, cleaners, and scutchers which use beaters, grids, and air flow to open, clean, and blend the fibers into a uniform lap for input to the carding process.
The document discusses weaving technology and processes. It describes how weaving involves interlacing two sets of threads, the warp and weft. It then summarizes the key steps in preparing yarn for weaving: warping to transfer yarn to a beam, sizing to reduce hairiness and increase strength, and drawing-in yarns into the loom. The basic mechanisms of warp and weft control in weaving are also outlined.
This document discusses finishing processes and parameters for knit fabrics. It begins by introducing the author and objectives of studying finishing effects through a stabilizing dryer. It then discusses various finishing steps like slitting, dewatering, drying, and compacting. It describes the functions and effects of machines used in these steps like slitter, tube squeezer, dryer, stenter, and compactor. It notes problems that can occur and suggests solutions like using a Mahlo device or sunforizing device. Other machines discussed include brio, ultra-soft, and brushing machines. Graphs show effects on spirality and shrinkage. The conclusion emphasizes understanding deviations and quality control.
The document discusses weaving processes and loom types. It begins by defining weaving as the interlacing of two sets of yarns. Several preparatory processes for weaving are described, including warping, sizing, and drawing the yarns through the loom. Different types of looms are outlined, from hand looms to power looms to shuttleless looms. Woven fabric structures like plain weave, twill weave, and satin/sateen weaves are also summarized. Finally, common weaving faults and how to mend them are briefly covered.
The document discusses knitting, which is a process of creating fabric or other crafts from loops of yarn or thread. It begins by acknowledging those who helped with a knitting project. It then defines knitting, compares it to weaving, discusses characteristics of knitted fabrics and common defects. The document outlines the formation of a knit stitch, describes warp and weft knitting structures, and discusses different knitting machines and methods.
Woven fabric is produced by interlacing warp threads that run lengthwise with weft threads that run across. The appearance and properties of woven fabric depend on yarn structure and fabric structure. There are four basic fabric parameters: thread count, yarn diameter, yarn bending, and weaving order. Weaving involves repeatedly raising warp yarns with harnesses to make a shed, inserting the weft through with a shuttle or rapier, and firmly beating it into place with a reed. Modern looms use rapier or projectile picking for higher speeds.
A Suit That Fits is a company that provides custom-made suits through an online process. Customers get measured in London and select fabrics, then their measurements and fabric choices are sent to tailors in Nepal. The article follows one customer's suit from being cut and sewn in Nepal to its completion back in London. It describes the measuring, fabric selection, cutting, sewing, and fitting process. It also provides background on the company, which was founded in Nepal by an English teacher and now has annual sales of £2 million, employing master tailors and improving the local economy.
This document provides instructions for various basic sewing stitches including basting, running stitch, back stitch, hemming, and others. It explains how to execute each stitch and when each stitch is appropriately used in dressmaking and sewing projects. The document is the first chapter in a book that aims to teach practical sewing and dressmaking skills through detailed lessons and instructions.
Chicago has a long history with knitting dating back to World War I when women formed knitting circles to create items for soldiers. During this period, newspapers provided patterns and encouraged readers to knit to support the war effort. In the 1920s-1940s, department stores hired knitting instructors and sold knitting supplies. Knitting grew in popularity in the post-war era as Americans had more disposable income. Stores offered knitting classes through the 1970s to teach patterns and techniques. Chicago was also home to several knitting mills that produced yarn and patterns.
Social sustainability encompasses human rights, labor rights, and corporate governance. It aims to ensure equal access to social resources for current and future generations. The document summarizes the global journey of a pair of Lee Cooper jeans from their production in a Tunisian factory to the raw materials and components from over 10 different countries. It describes the labor conditions for workers in Tunisia and Benin involved in cotton farming and textile production.
The document summarizes the development of the cotton textile industry in England before the Industrial Revolution. It describes how cotton was originally processed in family homes using manual labor and basic tools. Inventions like the spinning jenny, water frame, and power loom mechanized the process. This allowed cotton production to move from cottages to early factories powered by water wheels. Eventually steam power replaced water, further industrializing cotton production and making Manchester the center of the global cotton industry in the early 19th century.
This document discusses the application of computers in the textile industry. It provides examples of how computers are used at various stages of the textile design and manufacturing process, including for research, design, production, distribution, and sales. Key applications mentioned include CAD for design, CAM for production control, and CIM for integrated manufacturing support. The roles of word processors, spreadsheets, graphs, and digital photography in design are also summarized.
This document discusses the use of electronics in knitting machines. It provides advantages of electronic control over mechanical control, such as higher speeds, easier programming, and greater versatility. It describes various applications of electronics like stop motions, yarn feeding systems, needle selection, and pattern selection. Microprocessors and computers allow storing large amounts of knitting data and programs. Computerized knitting machines can be programmed to move the carriage and select needles electronically for complex patterns. Overall, electronics have significantly improved knitting machine capabilities and productivity.
Application of information technology in gi kkibrom G
This document discusses the application of information technology in the apparel manufacturing industry. It covers several areas:
1. Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used for pattern making, grading, and marker making to increase efficiency and standardization. Enterprise resource planning (ERP) software integrates various business functions.
2. Production planning software schedules operations and ensures on-time deliveries. Cutting is automated using computer-controlled knives. Sewing is becoming automated through robots.
3. RFID, warehouse management, e-commerce, and retail management systems improve inventory tracking, online sales, and the customer experience. Information technology has significantly increased productivity and quality in the apparel industry.
The document discusses Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) systems and their benefits for the textile and apparel industry. ERP systems integrate key operations like procurement, design, production, marketing, and distribution to help companies operate more efficiently. For the textile industry, ERP can help compress supply chains, improve responsiveness, and allow real-time visibility across global operations. Specific ERP software solutions are presented for the garment industry, along with case studies of companies experiencing increased productivity, cost savings, and improved customer satisfaction after implementing these systems.
This document provides an overview and comparison of different yarn manufacturing techniques, including ring spinning, open-end spinning, compact spinning, vortex spinning, air-jet spinning, and friction spinning. It discusses the key features of each technique in terms of speed, quality of yarn produced, strengths and weaknesses. It aims to study why ring spinning remains widely used and profitable despite newer techniques being faster, as ring spinning can produce high quality yarn at high speeds and is applicable to any material.
This slide contains why application of computer techonology in apparel industry.
We've tried to give some overview in CAD CAM software ,machine in which these are used & the reason for using CAD CAM software.Thank you.
The document provides an overview of the metal spinning process. It discusses the history and classification of different metal spinning techniques. The basic metal spinning process involves clamping a metal blank between a spinning mandrel and follower, and using specially designed tools to form the blank into an axially symmetric product while it rotates at high speeds. Key aspects covered include the mechanics of cone spinning, use of multi-pass spinning for small cone angles, mandrel and tool design, lubricants, common spinning machines, advantages over other forming processes, and applications.
Weaving is a method of fabric production that involves interlacing two sets of threads perpendicular to each other at right angles. Various Philippine ethnic groups produce distinctive textiles using weaving techniques and natural dyes. Ikat weaving involves resist dyeing the warp or weft threads before weaving to create patterns, while fabrics from Kalinga, Bontoc, and other groups feature geometric designs and nature motifs woven with cotton, abaca, or other fibers.
Stanley John Whidden - The military exists to serve the people, to defend the Nation, to protect vital national interests, and to fulfill national military responsibilities. The military recruits, organizes, trains, and equips soldiers, who then protect and serves the nation.
The document provides information on the physical properties of raw cotton including fiber length, fineness, strength, cleanliness, and chemical deposits. It then discusses the components and processes of a blow room line. The key goals of the blow room are to open compressed cotton fibers with minimal damage, remove impurities, and create an evenly blended sliver. Common blow room machines include bale openers, mixers, cleaners, and scutchers which use beaters, grids, and air flow to open, clean, and blend the fibers into a uniform lap for input to the carding process.
The document discusses weaving technology and processes. It describes how weaving involves interlacing two sets of threads, the warp and weft. It then summarizes the key steps in preparing yarn for weaving: warping to transfer yarn to a beam, sizing to reduce hairiness and increase strength, and drawing-in yarns into the loom. The basic mechanisms of warp and weft control in weaving are also outlined.
This document discusses finishing processes and parameters for knit fabrics. It begins by introducing the author and objectives of studying finishing effects through a stabilizing dryer. It then discusses various finishing steps like slitting, dewatering, drying, and compacting. It describes the functions and effects of machines used in these steps like slitter, tube squeezer, dryer, stenter, and compactor. It notes problems that can occur and suggests solutions like using a Mahlo device or sunforizing device. Other machines discussed include brio, ultra-soft, and brushing machines. Graphs show effects on spirality and shrinkage. The conclusion emphasizes understanding deviations and quality control.
The document discusses weaving processes and loom types. It begins by defining weaving as the interlacing of two sets of yarns. Several preparatory processes for weaving are described, including warping, sizing, and drawing the yarns through the loom. Different types of looms are outlined, from hand looms to power looms to shuttleless looms. Woven fabric structures like plain weave, twill weave, and satin/sateen weaves are also summarized. Finally, common weaving faults and how to mend them are briefly covered.
The document discusses knitting, which is a process of creating fabric or other crafts from loops of yarn or thread. It begins by acknowledging those who helped with a knitting project. It then defines knitting, compares it to weaving, discusses characteristics of knitted fabrics and common defects. The document outlines the formation of a knit stitch, describes warp and weft knitting structures, and discusses different knitting machines and methods.
Woven fabric is produced by interlacing warp threads that run lengthwise with weft threads that run across. The appearance and properties of woven fabric depend on yarn structure and fabric structure. There are four basic fabric parameters: thread count, yarn diameter, yarn bending, and weaving order. Weaving involves repeatedly raising warp yarns with harnesses to make a shed, inserting the weft through with a shuttle or rapier, and firmly beating it into place with a reed. Modern looms use rapier or projectile picking for higher speeds.
A Suit That Fits is a company that provides custom-made suits through an online process. Customers get measured in London and select fabrics, then their measurements and fabric choices are sent to tailors in Nepal. The article follows one customer's suit from being cut and sewn in Nepal to its completion back in London. It describes the measuring, fabric selection, cutting, sewing, and fitting process. It also provides background on the company, which was founded in Nepal by an English teacher and now has annual sales of £2 million, employing master tailors and improving the local economy.
This document provides instructions for various basic sewing stitches including basting, running stitch, back stitch, hemming, and others. It explains how to execute each stitch and when each stitch is appropriately used in dressmaking and sewing projects. The document is the first chapter in a book that aims to teach practical sewing and dressmaking skills through detailed lessons and instructions.
Chicago has a long history with knitting dating back to World War I when women formed knitting circles to create items for soldiers. During this period, newspapers provided patterns and encouraged readers to knit to support the war effort. In the 1920s-1940s, department stores hired knitting instructors and sold knitting supplies. Knitting grew in popularity in the post-war era as Americans had more disposable income. Stores offered knitting classes through the 1970s to teach patterns and techniques. Chicago was also home to several knitting mills that produced yarn and patterns.
Social sustainability encompasses human rights, labor rights, and corporate governance. It aims to ensure equal access to social resources for current and future generations. The document summarizes the global journey of a pair of Lee Cooper jeans from their production in a Tunisian factory to the raw materials and components from over 10 different countries. It describes the labor conditions for workers in Tunisia and Benin involved in cotton farming and textile production.
The document summarizes the development of the cotton textile industry in England before the Industrial Revolution. It describes how cotton was originally processed in family homes using manual labor and basic tools. Inventions like the spinning jenny, water frame, and power loom mechanized the process. This allowed cotton production to move from cottages to early factories powered by water wheels. Eventually steam power replaced water, further industrializing cotton production and making Manchester the center of the global cotton industry in the early 19th century.
This document appears to be a catalog from 1915 showcasing the latest women's, misses', and children's fashions from Perry, Dame & Co. in New York City. It includes an index of items for sale across different departments and sizes. Sample items described include a $7.98 dress made of all wool serge in the latest style, and a $12.98 dress made of fine quality lustrous satin messaline with stylish details. The catalog aims to provide customers with the newest New York styles at genuine money-saving prices.
This document provides a detailed summary of the global supply chain involved in producing a pair of jeans sold in a UK store. It traces the origins of various components - from cotton grown in Benin and Pakistan, to polyester fibers from Japan, brass from Australia and Namibia, buttons and rivets from Germany. The jeans are assembled in Tunisia where workers earn low wages for long hours in difficult conditions. The complex global journey illustrates the interconnected nature of global production and dependence on low-cost labor abroad.
DTG & Screen Print presentation by Garment Printing at FESPA 2016Gavin Drake
In this presentation, we look at DTG and Screen Printing. We follow the history of both techniques, the pro's and con's of each, and finally how both techniques are coming together to provide new printing processes in the future.
The article provides an overview of Tricker's, a 187-year-old bootmaker based in Northampton, England. The CEO, Martin Mason, discusses Tricker's history of making durable, waterproof boots for farmers and how the brand has expanded globally while maintaining production in its original Northampton factory. Mason highlights Tricker's commitment to traditional craftsmanship, with almost 250 steps to make a pair of boots, while also modernizing distribution through a new website and partnerships. The article conveys Tricker's blend of heritage, quality, and willingness to evolve with the times.
Similar to Charles Boyd Bowman | Introduction About Rayner & Sturges, Shirtmakers (9)
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L'indice de performance des ports à conteneurs de l'année 2023SPATPortToamasina
Une évaluation comparable de la performance basée sur le temps d'escale des navires
L'objectif de l'ICPP est d'identifier les domaines d'amélioration qui peuvent en fin de compte bénéficier à toutes les parties concernées, des compagnies maritimes aux gouvernements nationaux en passant par les consommateurs. Il est conçu pour servir de point de référence aux principaux acteurs de l'économie mondiale, notamment les autorités et les opérateurs portuaires, les gouvernements nationaux, les organisations supranationales, les agences de développement, les divers intérêts maritimes et d'autres acteurs publics et privés du commerce, de la logistique et des services de la chaîne d'approvisionnement.
Le développement de l'ICPP repose sur le temps total passé par les porte-conteneurs dans les ports, de la manière expliquée dans les sections suivantes du rapport, et comme dans les itérations précédentes de l'ICPP. Cette quatrième itération utilise des données pour l'année civile complète 2023. Elle poursuit le changement introduit l'année dernière en n'incluant que les ports qui ont eu un minimum de 24 escales valides au cours de la période de 12 mois de l'étude. Le nombre de ports inclus dans l'ICPP 2023 est de 405.
Comme dans les éditions précédentes de l'ICPP, la production du classement fait appel à deux approches méthodologiques différentes : une approche administrative, ou technique, une méthodologie pragmatique reflétant les connaissances et le jugement des experts ; et une approche statistique, utilisant l'analyse factorielle (AF), ou plus précisément la factorisation matricielle. L'utilisation de ces deux approches vise à garantir que le classement des performances des ports à conteneurs reflète le plus fidèlement possible les performances réelles des ports, tout en étant statistiquement robuste.
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Adani Group Requests For Additional Land For Its Dharavi Redevelopment Projec...Adani case
It will bring about growth and development not only in Maharashtra but also in our country as a whole, which will experience prosperity. The project will also give the Adani Group an opportunity to rise above the controversies that have been ongoing since the Adani CBI Investigation.
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3. AT RAYNER & STURGES, SHIRTMAKERS
When Boyd Bowman of Alexander Boyd, the Spitalfields tailor, introduced
himself to me as the last shirtmaker in England – I knew at once that I needed to
visit his factory, next to the old dockyard at the mouth of the Medway near
Chatham in Kent. Here at Rayner & Sturges, in a handsomely matchboarded
nineteenth century building, tall and narrow like a ship and with light coming
from windows on both sides, the finest bespoke shirts are made for Savile Row
and Jermyn St. And if you walk into Alexander Boyd’s tailoring shop at 54
Artillery Lane, Spitalfields, and order a shirt to be made for you personally, this is
where it will be cut and sewn.
4.
5. On a rise up above the Medway stands the heroic shirt factory, established here in 1913 by Messrs
Rayner & Sturges as part of a local clothing manufacturing industry in Kent that has all gone now,
apart from this. Many of the staff trained and worked in other companies in the vicinity, but now
the remaining skilled garment workers are all concentrated here, quietly making the very best
shirts together.
You walk straight from the street into the factory floor where a rack of magnificent Italian and
Swiss shirt cottons greet you on the left and paper patterns hang on the wall to your right. I set out
to follow the path of a shirt, leading me to Anthony Rose, dignified cutter of fifty years experience.
“You spent three years laying the cloth out and measuring the lengths before they let you cut it, “
he told me, “You’ve got to understand how the pieces go together in the finished article. We make
the full-matched shirt for stripes and checks, which means the pattern matches at the shoulder, the
sleeves, the pocket, across the front and the cuffs.” A master at work, he took out a length of bold
blue-striped cotton, folded the cloth carefully in half and arranged the patterns strategically,
cutting with a sharp pair of long, old scissors, to ensure an perfect symmetry of the finished shirt.
6. From the quiet of the cutting room, I climbed up to the sewing floor, echoing with the sound of
machines and filled with dazzling morning sunlight. Here, Carol Williams, the cuffmaker,
introduced herself, explaining that she began her career as dressmaker in Spitalfields at a factory
on the corner of Toynbee and Commercial St in 1959, earning three pounds a week. The queen
of cuffs today, she sandwiches the layers of shirting and liner together, sews them and turns
them inside out to produce a perfect cuff every time.
Commanding the centre of the floor are a small posse of machinists, each specialising in
different aspects of the shirt whether making collars or attaching sleeves. These lively ladies
dressed in different colours welcomed me to their territory where they work with relaxed
concentration and self-respecting perfectionism. The pieces of each shirt are gathered in a tray
that gets passed along the line, as each member of the team works upon the garment until a
beautiful new shirt emerges at the end. The skill and experience of these women working
closely together, gossiping, amusing each other and taking pride in their exemplary work is a
rare contrast to the sweatshops of mass-manufacturers.
7. Up on the top floor, in a room with a lofty aspect and a splendid wooden pent roof, I met Ryan
an apprentice pattern maker, whose job is to translate the measurements and other
specifications for a shirt into a paper pattern that can be sent down to Anthony on the ground
floor to set the whole process rolling. Ryan’s father John, who is also his master, was eager to
talk about all the famous names that wear the shirts made here, but I was more intrigued by
this unusual and harmonious father and son team.
Not only was the building reminiscent of a ship, but the employees were a top-notch crew in
which everyone contributed their different skills to a single end, permitting mutual appreciation
and respect, sharing pride in the finished result. While there is no doubt that the age of mass
production can sublimate and degrade the individual – that is what you read everywhere – here
in Chatham at Rayner & Sturges, I found another story which by its existence proves that a
different way can be viable. People work in decent conditions, without cutting corners, and
create beautiful shirts for which enough customers are prepared to pay the price. It may be the
last shirtmaker in England, but it is a new song of the shirt.