FAST is a fabric testing system developed by CSIRO in Australia. It consists of four instruments (FAST 1-3) and one test (FAST 4) to predict how fabrics will perform when made into garments. The instruments measure properties like thickness, bending, extension, and stability. Results are plotted to create a "fabric fingerprint" showing suitability for intended use. Unlike other systems, FAST is cheaper, simpler, and better for industrial use.
This document is an assignment submission for a course on testing textiles. It describes an experiment conducted on a Yarn Lea Strength Tester to determine the strength of a cotton yarn sample. The experiment found that the yarn strength was 79.32 lbs/lea and the Count Strength Product (CSP) was 2379.6. Since the CSP was greater than the standard of 2200, the document concludes that the yarn sample had good strength fibers.
stiffness,Handle,Drape properties of fabric ,Fabric property TTQC-2AtiqFaysal
This presentation discusses the stiffness, handle, and drape properties of fabrics. It will cover stiffness and how it is tested using machines like the Shirley Stiffness tester. It will also discuss fabric handle properties, the factors that influence handle, and how to measure drape properties using a drape tester to determine the drape coefficient. Relevant apparatus and testing procedures will be explained.
Yarn count expresses the coarseness or fineness of yarn and is measured using various systems. There are indirect and direct count systems, with indirect systems like cotton using length per unit weight and direct systems like jute using weight per unit length. Various instruments can measure count, including the quadrant balance for short lengths, warp reel and balance method for longer lengths, and Beesley's balance for small fabric samples. Count affects properties like thickness and strength and is an important consideration in textile manufacturing.
In weft knitting, the loops are formed across width of the fabric Each weft thread is fed , more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.Weft-knit fabrics may also be knit with multiple yarns, usually to produce interesting color patterns.
Textile testing is an important part of the textile production process. It involves determining various properties of fibers, yarns, and fabrics to ensure quality standards are met. The objectives of textile testing include selecting raw materials, controlling manufacturing processes, ensuring quality of finished products, and facilitating research and product development. There are different types of textile testing for fibers, yarns, woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and nonwoven fabrics. Test methods are established by various standards organizations and influence factors like sampling methods, atmospheric conditions, equipment used, and technician skill.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Knit fragments dating back to 250 BC
◦
Compared to 9,000 years for wovens
y
Introduced to Europe by the Arabs
◦
Did not gain popularity until around 1,000 AD
This document is an assignment submission for a course on testing textiles. It describes an experiment conducted on a Yarn Lea Strength Tester to determine the strength of a cotton yarn sample. The experiment found that the yarn strength was 79.32 lbs/lea and the Count Strength Product (CSP) was 2379.6. Since the CSP was greater than the standard of 2200, the document concludes that the yarn sample had good strength fibers.
stiffness,Handle,Drape properties of fabric ,Fabric property TTQC-2AtiqFaysal
This presentation discusses the stiffness, handle, and drape properties of fabrics. It will cover stiffness and how it is tested using machines like the Shirley Stiffness tester. It will also discuss fabric handle properties, the factors that influence handle, and how to measure drape properties using a drape tester to determine the drape coefficient. Relevant apparatus and testing procedures will be explained.
Yarn count expresses the coarseness or fineness of yarn and is measured using various systems. There are indirect and direct count systems, with indirect systems like cotton using length per unit weight and direct systems like jute using weight per unit length. Various instruments can measure count, including the quadrant balance for short lengths, warp reel and balance method for longer lengths, and Beesley's balance for small fabric samples. Count affects properties like thickness and strength and is an important consideration in textile manufacturing.
In weft knitting, the loops are formed across width of the fabric Each weft thread is fed , more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.Weft-knit fabrics may also be knit with multiple yarns, usually to produce interesting color patterns.
Textile testing is an important part of the textile production process. It involves determining various properties of fibers, yarns, and fabrics to ensure quality standards are met. The objectives of textile testing include selecting raw materials, controlling manufacturing processes, ensuring quality of finished products, and facilitating research and product development. There are different types of textile testing for fibers, yarns, woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and nonwoven fabrics. Test methods are established by various standards organizations and influence factors like sampling methods, atmospheric conditions, equipment used, and technician skill.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Knit fragments dating back to 250 BC
◦
Compared to 9,000 years for wovens
y
Introduced to Europe by the Arabs
◦
Did not gain popularity until around 1,000 AD
This document discusses different types of seams used in garment construction. It begins by defining a seam as the place where two pieces of fabric are joined together with stitches. It then provides details on 7 common types of seams - superimposed seam, lapped seam, bound seam, flat seam, decorative seam, edge neatening seam, and a seam similar to a lapped seam. For each seam type, it provides a definition and examples of typical usages. It concludes by discussing best practices for seams and factors that can affect the appearance of a seam.
This document discusses methods for determining the performance of woven fabrics, including pilling resistance, abrasion resistance, tear strength, and breaking strength. It describes common tests for each property, such as the ICI pilling box test and Wyzenbeek abrasion test. Pilling is caused by fiber mobility and tangling, and is rated on a scale from 1 to 5. Abrasion resistance depends on fiber type, properties, twist, and fabric structure. Tear and breaking strength measurements use methods like the strip, grab, and rip tests.
This document profiles Abdullah Al Mahfuj, a student studying Textile Engineering at Green University of Bangladesh. His presentation discusses double cloth fabrics. Double cloths are fabrics made of two layers of threads woven separately and then stitched together. They have two objectives: to improve thermal resistance and provide a good appearance and feel. Double cloths are classified based on how the layers are stitched together, including self-stitching from face to back or back to face, or using different stitching threads between layers. Their end uses include industrial applications like hoses and insulation, as well as clothing like overcoats.
This document discusses yarn count and its measurement. It defines yarn count as the numerical expression of the coarseness or fineness of yarn. There are several systems used to express yarn count, including indirect, direct, and universal systems. The most common systems are the indirect system used for cotton, wool, and linen, where higher count means finer yarn, and the direct system used for jute and silk, where higher count means coarser yarn. The universal Tex system introduced by ISO is a direct system where count indicates the weight in grams of 1000 meters of yarn. There are several instruments that can be used to measure yarn count, including quadrant balances, Knowles balances, and measuring drums for
Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length of the fabric, i.e., following adjacent columns ("wales") of knitting, rather than a single row ("course"). For comparison, knitting across the width of the fabric is called weft knitting
This presentation discusses yarn geometry and various types of yarns. It defines textiles and yarn, and classifies yarns into continuous filament, staple, core spun, novelty, stretch, and high bulk yarns. It describes the properties, structures, and manufacturing processes of these different yarns. The presentation also covers yarn designation, ideal yarn properties, fiber packing in yarns, optimum twist factor, twist contraction, and the basic geometry of twisted yarns.
This document discusses various characteristics of yarn that are tested, including linear density, twist, yarn evenness, hairiness, bulk, and friction. It provides details on different systems for measuring linear density, the types and importance of twist, factors that affect hairiness, and methods for measuring and recovering from yarn hairiness. The document was submitted by five students - Md Mahmud Mia, Imran Hasan, Hasan Al Mamun, Mahabubur Rahman, and Naiemmur Rahman.
The document traces the history and development of the sewing machine from its earliest inventions in the late 18th century to modern computer-controlled machines. Key developments include the first patent for a sewing machine design by Thomas Saint in 1791; the lock stitch invention by Walter Hunt in 1833; Isaac Singer's invention of the rotary sewing machine in 1851, which combined elements of prior machines; and the introduction of the first electric sewing machines by Singer in 1889. The document provides details on various stitch types and their classifications, including lock stitch, chain stitch, and cover stitch. It discusses the applications and advantages of different stitch techniques.
The document provides information about circular knitting machines. It defines knitting as transforming yarn into interlocking loops. Circular knitting creates seamless tubes using circular needles or machines. Machine parts include the frame, power supply, yarn feeding system, and quality control components. Circular knitting machines are used to produce fabrics for various garments and other materials. Modern machines feature computer controls to monitor functions like speed and stops.
The document discusses various types of textile testing instruments used to test quality at different stages of textile production. It introduces instruments like the GSM cutter, Martindale abrasion and pilling tester, air permeability tester, lea strength tester, Uster evenness tester, wrinkle recovery tester, crease recovery tester, yarn count tester, yarn twist tester, standards tumble dryer, lab conditioner, fabric thickness gauge, yarn strength tester, and tearing strength tester. It provides details on how each instrument works and the procedures to test quality parameters like weight, abrasion resistance, air permeability, strength, evenness, wrinkle recovery, thickness, and tearing strength.
The document describes an overlock machine, which is a specialized sewing machine used to finish fabric edges and seams. It can produce stitches at speeds up to 5000 stitches per minute. The overlock machine makes stitches using 1-5 threads depending on the number of needles and loopers. Common stitch types include 3-thread, 4-thread, and 5-thread overlocks. Key features of the overlock machine include its differential feed system and ability to stretch stitching up to 300%. Problems with thread chains are addressed through the use of a backlatcher or chain cutting device.
Loops in warp knitting are called laps. There are two types of laps: over laps, where the yarn wraps around the needle, and under laps, the length of yarn connecting loops. Overlaps are formed through shogging and sewing motions, while underlaps connect two successive overlaps. The main lap variations are closed laps with overlaps and underlaps in opposite directions, open laps with overlaps and underlaps in the same direction, laying-in with only underlaps, and miss lapping with neither overlaps nor underlaps.
Fleece fabric is one of the oldest knitted fabric designs that remains popular today. It has properties of being warm, cozy, easy to care for, washable, and can be produced at low cost using circular knitting machines. There are several types of fleece fabrics defined by the number of yarn threads used (one, two, or three thread) or the material (cotton, polyester, blends). Fleece fabrics are characterized by loops of yarn on the surface that provide insulation properties. They have many uses including outerwear, linings, and blankets.
This document is an 11-page lab report on studying a flat bed knitting machine. It includes diagrams of the machine's yarn path, needle beds arranged in a V formation, and cam carriage system. The report describes the machine parts like the needle beds, yarn carriers, and different cams. It explains the knitting action where the needle butts are lifted and lowered by the cam system to transfer stitches and form new loops. The conclusion states that this experiment provided an introduction to flat bed knitting machine operations and settings that could help with industrial applications.
Pierce's model treats woven fabric as a repeating network of identical unit cells composed of interlacing yarns with circular cross-sections. It allows for calculation of geometric parameters like thread spacing and fabric thickness. Kemp's model modifies yarn cross-section to an elliptical racetrack shape to better model tightly woven fabrics. Hearle's lenticular model uses an energy approach. While these models provide simplified representations, real fabrics do not conform to idealized shapes and the relationship between geometry and mechanical properties is still not fully understood.
This presentation summarizes the Jacquard shedding mechanism. It introduces the four presenters and provides background on the Jacquard loom, which can produce complex woven designs through individual control of warp threads. The presentation then covers the scope of Jacquard shedding, including its ability to control thousands of yarns and produce intricate designs. It also classifies different types of Jacquard looms based on their lifting capacity, design capacity, shed formation, and other features. Key aspects of the single lift Jacquard mechanism are explained. Advantages and disadvantages of the Jacquard loom conclude the presentation.
importance of fibre finess,influences of fibre finess ,effect on stiffness , effect on torsional rigidity, reflection of light , dye absoprtion, method of measurement ,gravimetric method, micronaire
This document discusses textile testing and quality control. It begins by defining textile testing as examining the physical, mechanical, and chemical properties of textiles. Quality control ensures products meet requirements by regulating variables that affect quality. Textile testing is important for research, material selection, process monitoring, product evaluation, and more. Different types of textile testing include fiber, yarn, and fabric tests. Sampling methods like random and zoning techniques are used to obtain representative samples. Factors like humidity, time, temperature affect moisture regain and content, which are measures of the water in a material.
The document discusses various aspects of fabric spreading including types of spreads, spreading methods, quality considerations, and equipment used. It describes manual spreading using two people versus semi-automatic spreading carriages. Automatic spreaders can load fabric rolls, control tension, and cut fabric ends automatically. Quality depends on defects, tension, flatness, ply alignment, and static electricity. Setup involves preparing orders, tables, and machines. Spreading surfaces include pin tables, vacuum tables, and air flotation tables. Control devices manage tension while positioning devices monitor alignment. End treatment devices catch or cut fabric at the ends.
Commercial & Standard Fabrics with properties and uses by Ghulam Mustafa Ghulam Mustafa Ghori
The document discusses properties and uses of various fabrics including voile, poplin, muslin, georgette, gauze, satin, velvet, flannel, drill, terry, denim, corduroy, chiffon, cambric, single jersey knits, pique knits, slub jersey knits, and fleece knits. Each fabric is defined and its key properties such as weight, texture, durability, and moisture absorption are described. Common applications for apparel, home furnishings, and other end uses are also provided.
Study of relationship between seam slippage& strengthAbdur Rahim Khan
1. The document outlines a research project on analyzing factors that influence seam slippage in woven garments.
2. The project will examine the effect of fabric properties like GSM, cover factor, and thickness on seam slippage strength. Fabric samples with different values for these properties will be stitched and tested.
3. Mathematical relationships and graphs will be used to determine the dependency and correlation between seam slippage strength and the structural parameters of the woven fabrics. Test results and data analysis will be included in the project report.
Effect of stitch length on physical and mechanical properties of single jerse...Elias Khalil (ইলিয়াস খলিল)
The physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabric can be changed due to use of various count of yarn, type of yarn
(ring, rotor, and compact), quality of yarn, stitch length / loop length, structural geometry, fiber composition of yarn etc. This study
focused on the various stitch length effect of grey single jersey. With an increase in stitch length, the dimensional properties like CPI,
WPI, GSM, thickness & tightness factor will be decreased for all the structures; while comfort properties like air permeability & water
absorbency will be increased. Again shrinkage & spirality will be decreased with increased stitch length at grey stage. Other properties
such as bursting strength, abrasion resistance & pilling resistance improved with increased stitch length. Though all the tests for fabric
properties were carried out for grey stage, there properties can considerably vary after further finishing of the fabrics. As finishing is
mandatory for fabric production, so now-a-days, these kinds of tests are carried out after finishing stage & proper controlling is done
according to desired quality. Sometimes, controlling of some properties of finished fabrics are beyond our trial. In that case, analysis of
fabric properties at grey stage can help us to take various control & corrective actions when necessary.
This document discusses different types of seams used in garment construction. It begins by defining a seam as the place where two pieces of fabric are joined together with stitches. It then provides details on 7 common types of seams - superimposed seam, lapped seam, bound seam, flat seam, decorative seam, edge neatening seam, and a seam similar to a lapped seam. For each seam type, it provides a definition and examples of typical usages. It concludes by discussing best practices for seams and factors that can affect the appearance of a seam.
This document discusses methods for determining the performance of woven fabrics, including pilling resistance, abrasion resistance, tear strength, and breaking strength. It describes common tests for each property, such as the ICI pilling box test and Wyzenbeek abrasion test. Pilling is caused by fiber mobility and tangling, and is rated on a scale from 1 to 5. Abrasion resistance depends on fiber type, properties, twist, and fabric structure. Tear and breaking strength measurements use methods like the strip, grab, and rip tests.
This document profiles Abdullah Al Mahfuj, a student studying Textile Engineering at Green University of Bangladesh. His presentation discusses double cloth fabrics. Double cloths are fabrics made of two layers of threads woven separately and then stitched together. They have two objectives: to improve thermal resistance and provide a good appearance and feel. Double cloths are classified based on how the layers are stitched together, including self-stitching from face to back or back to face, or using different stitching threads between layers. Their end uses include industrial applications like hoses and insulation, as well as clothing like overcoats.
This document discusses yarn count and its measurement. It defines yarn count as the numerical expression of the coarseness or fineness of yarn. There are several systems used to express yarn count, including indirect, direct, and universal systems. The most common systems are the indirect system used for cotton, wool, and linen, where higher count means finer yarn, and the direct system used for jute and silk, where higher count means coarser yarn. The universal Tex system introduced by ISO is a direct system where count indicates the weight in grams of 1000 meters of yarn. There are several instruments that can be used to measure yarn count, including quadrant balances, Knowles balances, and measuring drums for
Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length of the fabric, i.e., following adjacent columns ("wales") of knitting, rather than a single row ("course"). For comparison, knitting across the width of the fabric is called weft knitting
This presentation discusses yarn geometry and various types of yarns. It defines textiles and yarn, and classifies yarns into continuous filament, staple, core spun, novelty, stretch, and high bulk yarns. It describes the properties, structures, and manufacturing processes of these different yarns. The presentation also covers yarn designation, ideal yarn properties, fiber packing in yarns, optimum twist factor, twist contraction, and the basic geometry of twisted yarns.
This document discusses various characteristics of yarn that are tested, including linear density, twist, yarn evenness, hairiness, bulk, and friction. It provides details on different systems for measuring linear density, the types and importance of twist, factors that affect hairiness, and methods for measuring and recovering from yarn hairiness. The document was submitted by five students - Md Mahmud Mia, Imran Hasan, Hasan Al Mamun, Mahabubur Rahman, and Naiemmur Rahman.
The document traces the history and development of the sewing machine from its earliest inventions in the late 18th century to modern computer-controlled machines. Key developments include the first patent for a sewing machine design by Thomas Saint in 1791; the lock stitch invention by Walter Hunt in 1833; Isaac Singer's invention of the rotary sewing machine in 1851, which combined elements of prior machines; and the introduction of the first electric sewing machines by Singer in 1889. The document provides details on various stitch types and their classifications, including lock stitch, chain stitch, and cover stitch. It discusses the applications and advantages of different stitch techniques.
The document provides information about circular knitting machines. It defines knitting as transforming yarn into interlocking loops. Circular knitting creates seamless tubes using circular needles or machines. Machine parts include the frame, power supply, yarn feeding system, and quality control components. Circular knitting machines are used to produce fabrics for various garments and other materials. Modern machines feature computer controls to monitor functions like speed and stops.
The document discusses various types of textile testing instruments used to test quality at different stages of textile production. It introduces instruments like the GSM cutter, Martindale abrasion and pilling tester, air permeability tester, lea strength tester, Uster evenness tester, wrinkle recovery tester, crease recovery tester, yarn count tester, yarn twist tester, standards tumble dryer, lab conditioner, fabric thickness gauge, yarn strength tester, and tearing strength tester. It provides details on how each instrument works and the procedures to test quality parameters like weight, abrasion resistance, air permeability, strength, evenness, wrinkle recovery, thickness, and tearing strength.
The document describes an overlock machine, which is a specialized sewing machine used to finish fabric edges and seams. It can produce stitches at speeds up to 5000 stitches per minute. The overlock machine makes stitches using 1-5 threads depending on the number of needles and loopers. Common stitch types include 3-thread, 4-thread, and 5-thread overlocks. Key features of the overlock machine include its differential feed system and ability to stretch stitching up to 300%. Problems with thread chains are addressed through the use of a backlatcher or chain cutting device.
Loops in warp knitting are called laps. There are two types of laps: over laps, where the yarn wraps around the needle, and under laps, the length of yarn connecting loops. Overlaps are formed through shogging and sewing motions, while underlaps connect two successive overlaps. The main lap variations are closed laps with overlaps and underlaps in opposite directions, open laps with overlaps and underlaps in the same direction, laying-in with only underlaps, and miss lapping with neither overlaps nor underlaps.
Fleece fabric is one of the oldest knitted fabric designs that remains popular today. It has properties of being warm, cozy, easy to care for, washable, and can be produced at low cost using circular knitting machines. There are several types of fleece fabrics defined by the number of yarn threads used (one, two, or three thread) or the material (cotton, polyester, blends). Fleece fabrics are characterized by loops of yarn on the surface that provide insulation properties. They have many uses including outerwear, linings, and blankets.
This document is an 11-page lab report on studying a flat bed knitting machine. It includes diagrams of the machine's yarn path, needle beds arranged in a V formation, and cam carriage system. The report describes the machine parts like the needle beds, yarn carriers, and different cams. It explains the knitting action where the needle butts are lifted and lowered by the cam system to transfer stitches and form new loops. The conclusion states that this experiment provided an introduction to flat bed knitting machine operations and settings that could help with industrial applications.
Pierce's model treats woven fabric as a repeating network of identical unit cells composed of interlacing yarns with circular cross-sections. It allows for calculation of geometric parameters like thread spacing and fabric thickness. Kemp's model modifies yarn cross-section to an elliptical racetrack shape to better model tightly woven fabrics. Hearle's lenticular model uses an energy approach. While these models provide simplified representations, real fabrics do not conform to idealized shapes and the relationship between geometry and mechanical properties is still not fully understood.
This presentation summarizes the Jacquard shedding mechanism. It introduces the four presenters and provides background on the Jacquard loom, which can produce complex woven designs through individual control of warp threads. The presentation then covers the scope of Jacquard shedding, including its ability to control thousands of yarns and produce intricate designs. It also classifies different types of Jacquard looms based on their lifting capacity, design capacity, shed formation, and other features. Key aspects of the single lift Jacquard mechanism are explained. Advantages and disadvantages of the Jacquard loom conclude the presentation.
importance of fibre finess,influences of fibre finess ,effect on stiffness , effect on torsional rigidity, reflection of light , dye absoprtion, method of measurement ,gravimetric method, micronaire
This document discusses textile testing and quality control. It begins by defining textile testing as examining the physical, mechanical, and chemical properties of textiles. Quality control ensures products meet requirements by regulating variables that affect quality. Textile testing is important for research, material selection, process monitoring, product evaluation, and more. Different types of textile testing include fiber, yarn, and fabric tests. Sampling methods like random and zoning techniques are used to obtain representative samples. Factors like humidity, time, temperature affect moisture regain and content, which are measures of the water in a material.
The document discusses various aspects of fabric spreading including types of spreads, spreading methods, quality considerations, and equipment used. It describes manual spreading using two people versus semi-automatic spreading carriages. Automatic spreaders can load fabric rolls, control tension, and cut fabric ends automatically. Quality depends on defects, tension, flatness, ply alignment, and static electricity. Setup involves preparing orders, tables, and machines. Spreading surfaces include pin tables, vacuum tables, and air flotation tables. Control devices manage tension while positioning devices monitor alignment. End treatment devices catch or cut fabric at the ends.
Commercial & Standard Fabrics with properties and uses by Ghulam Mustafa Ghulam Mustafa Ghori
The document discusses properties and uses of various fabrics including voile, poplin, muslin, georgette, gauze, satin, velvet, flannel, drill, terry, denim, corduroy, chiffon, cambric, single jersey knits, pique knits, slub jersey knits, and fleece knits. Each fabric is defined and its key properties such as weight, texture, durability, and moisture absorption are described. Common applications for apparel, home furnishings, and other end uses are also provided.
Study of relationship between seam slippage& strengthAbdur Rahim Khan
1. The document outlines a research project on analyzing factors that influence seam slippage in woven garments.
2. The project will examine the effect of fabric properties like GSM, cover factor, and thickness on seam slippage strength. Fabric samples with different values for these properties will be stitched and tested.
3. Mathematical relationships and graphs will be used to determine the dependency and correlation between seam slippage strength and the structural parameters of the woven fabrics. Test results and data analysis will be included in the project report.
Effect of stitch length on physical and mechanical properties of single jerse...Elias Khalil (ইলিয়াস খলিল)
The physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabric can be changed due to use of various count of yarn, type of yarn
(ring, rotor, and compact), quality of yarn, stitch length / loop length, structural geometry, fiber composition of yarn etc. This study
focused on the various stitch length effect of grey single jersey. With an increase in stitch length, the dimensional properties like CPI,
WPI, GSM, thickness & tightness factor will be decreased for all the structures; while comfort properties like air permeability & water
absorbency will be increased. Again shrinkage & spirality will be decreased with increased stitch length at grey stage. Other properties
such as bursting strength, abrasion resistance & pilling resistance improved with increased stitch length. Though all the tests for fabric
properties were carried out for grey stage, there properties can considerably vary after further finishing of the fabrics. As finishing is
mandatory for fabric production, so now-a-days, these kinds of tests are carried out after finishing stage & proper controlling is done
according to desired quality. Sometimes, controlling of some properties of finished fabrics are beyond our trial. In that case, analysis of
fabric properties at grey stage can help us to take various control & corrective actions when necessary.
Effect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey FabricIJMERJOURNAL
ABSTRACT: The works reported in this paper present the effects of stitch length on different properties of plain single jersey fabric. Fabric properties can be changed due to use of various counts of yarn, type (ring, rotor, and compact), quality, stitch length, structural geometry, fiber composition, etc. With an increase in stitch length, the properties like Courses Per Inch (CPI), Wales Per Inch (WPI), GSM and stitch density will be decreased when the remaining other parameters are constant. Again shrinkage and spirality will be increased and bursting strength decreased with the increased stitch length. Pilling and abrasion resistance show lower grading when stitch length increases.
Effect of stitch length on abrasion resistance Azmir Latif Beg
The document summarizes research on the effect of stitch length on the abrasion resistance of grey knitted fabric. It finds that abrasion resistance decreases as stitch length increases, but not in a linear relationship. Specifically:
- Abrasion resistance decreases slightly as stitch length first increases but then decreases more rapidly for fabrics made from 24 Ne yarn.
- It also decreases for 32 Ne and 34 Ne yarns as stitch length increases, but the relationships are not linear and show opposing curves.
- Regression equations are provided relating stitch length and abrasion loss for each yarn count, allowing abrasion resistance to be predicted.
- While small hosiery machines are less used now, the research
Handle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabriciosrjce
Hand of cotton: woolhand knitted fabrics has been reported in this study. Indian crossbred wool
(Rambouillet and Chokla) was blended with cotton (Mech I) in three different ratios (10-90%, 20-80% and 30-
70%) and yarns were prepared on hand spinning system.Knitted fabric samples were constructed on 10-12
gauge, flat bed hand knitting machine. Fabric handle was objectively assessed by SiroFAST.
Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...iosrjce
Stitch length and GSM (gram per square meter) are the two major parameters for making a knit
fabric. The relationship between stitch length (S.L) and GSM is inversely proportional if the other parameter
remain constant. Again the presence of tuck loop in knit fabric structure make the fabric heavier than the plain
single jersey fabric having all knit loop because of the accumulation of yarn in the tucking place. In this study,
an experimental work was offered to understand the influence of different stitch length on the GSM of knit fabric
with respect to the change of tuck loop percentage in the knit fabric structure. Here three fabric (single jersey,
single lacoste and polo pique) having different tuck loops percentage with five different stitch lengths were
selected where the other parameters were constant. With the increment of tuck loop percentage and descending
of stitch length, a measurable increase in areal density was observed, where the GSM increment percentage was
maximum at 2.70 mm stitch length for every tuck loop percentage. After that the gradual reduction of stitch
length resulted in the lower rate of GSM increment.
This document provides information about standard test methods for textiles. It discusses atmospheric conditions that should be standardized for textile testing, including 65% relative humidity and 70°F temperature. Strength properties of apparel that are tested are fabric strength, seam strength, and resistance to yarn slippage. Specific tests for fabric strength include breaking strength, tearing strength, and bursting strength. The document also covers fabric shrinkage, durable press evaluation, and water resistance and repellency testing.
This paper deals with the result of an investigation by using different count yarn but same
parameters of knitting machine to produce cotton-elastane single jersey fabric. Here,the all parameters of
knitting machine including gauge, dia ,Stitch length, rpm, machine tension etcare same. Dyeing process also
carried out at same parameter for all fabrics. Finishing process like Heat setting, Stentering, compacting are
done in same condition But we use different count cotton yarn. In this paper, we mainly deal with the physical
properties of single jersey cotton fabric. we try to identify how the properties of single jersey knitted fabric like
fabric diameter(gray& finished condition) ,WPI&CPI(gray& finished condition),Fabric GSM(gray& finished
condition),Shrinkage (%) length &width wise, spiralityare changing with Count .Finally the findings are as
expected with some variation with the result that are thought theoretically.
“Evaluation of Sewing Performance of Plain Twill and Satin Fabrics Based On S...IOSR Journals
Abstract: Seam strength is an important factor in determining the durability of a garment. Seam strength is
determined by resistance to pulling force and abrasion. Seam tenacity break the fabric or the weakest stitch of
seam. Seam abrasion resistance is the amount of rubbing action needed to wear away stitches in the seam
strength is related to stitch type, thread strength ,thread tension, seam type,seam efficiency, width ,and stitches
per inch.Loop strength of thread is more important to durability the seam need not be stronger than the fabric
being sewn.A triple stitched lapped seam would not be necessary for a pair of corduroy jeans since the fabric
itself is not strong and would wear out before the seam.It is better to have the thread is an overstressed seam
that to damage the fabric.Our project objective is to find the seam of strength by using different type of materials.
Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...Md. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
This document summarizes an experimental study on the effects of stitch length on plain single jersey cotton fabrics with and without lycra. It describes the sample fabric production including fabric type, yarn type and count, and machine parameters. It then summarizes the results of various tests conducted including spirality, pilling resistance, GSM, courses/wales per inch, dimensional stability, fabric thickness, and color fastness. The tests showed that increasing the stitch length increased spirality and decreased other properties like GSM and fabric thickness. The document concludes by emphasizing the importance of textile education to develop competitive human resources.
Comparison of some of Denim Fabric Properties produced with different Weftijsrd.com
The aim of this study was to asses and compares the some of denim fabric properties using three different weft yarns. Threads per inch and weft type are some of the most important parameters that affect both weaving performance and fabric property. Experimental studies were conducted by weaving fabrics with same warp yarn i.e. 9'OE Rotor yarn. Three different weft yarns are (1) Excel (2) Cotton (3) Polyester. These all are same count. Denim fabrics was woven in three different twill weave (1) 2/1 (2) 3/1 (3) 2/2. It was found the weave type and weft type affects fabric properties. The weave and weft yarn has great impact on the some of comfort related properties also i.e. air permeability, tensile strength, tear strength, and seam slippage, bursting strength.
The document discusses various techniques for testing yarn characteristics and quality, including twist, count, strength, and evenness. It describes machines like the automatic twist tester and Uster evenness tester that can accurately measure attributes like twists per meter and coefficient of variation. Maintaining proper tension, reducing friction, and following testing standards are important for obtaining precise yarn assessment. A variety of testing helps ensure high quality from raw materials to finished fabrics.
1. The study investigated the spinning limits and yarn properties of cotton, viscose, and polyester fibers spun on a Dref-3 friction spinning machine across different yarn counts.
2. The spinning limit, defined as the finest yarn count that can be spun with acceptable quality and breakage rate, was found to depend on fiber type and ranged from 33-311 tex for the fibers studied.
3. As yarn count decreased, yarn properties like unevenness and imperfections generally increased for all fiber types due to poorer fiber separation and increased irregularities introduced during drafting. Twists also increased with finer counts.
4. Tensile properties responded differently for different fibers - they remained fairly constant
Effect of machine parameters on knit fabric specificationstawfik_hussein
This document summarizes research on the effect of machine parameters on knit fabric specifications. The research investigated cotton knit fabrics produced with different yarn counts, machine gauges, and machine diameters. The following relationships were identified:
1) Yarn count typically increases with machine gauge. Higher gauges accommodate finer yarns.
2) The diameter of finished fabrics varies with machine diameter and fabric grammage. At different grammage ranges, the relationship between machine and fabric diameters differs.
3) A constant, Kv, relates the VDQ pulley number, stitch length, and needle number. Kv depends on machine type and diameter. It allows for better selection of VDQ number based on stitch
This document discusses finishing processes and parameters for knit fabrics. It begins by introducing the author and objectives of studying finishing effects through a stabilizing dryer. It then discusses various finishing steps like slitting, dewatering, drying, and compacting. It describes the functions and effects of machines used in these steps like slitter, tube squeezer, dryer, stenter, and compactor. It notes problems that can occur and suggests solutions like using a Mahlo device or sunforizing device. Other machines discussed include brio, ultra-soft, and brushing machines. Graphs show effects on spirality and shrinkage. The conclusion emphasizes understanding deviations and quality control.
This document discusses stiffness, drape, and methods for measuring these properties in fabrics. It defines key terms like handle, flexibility, rigidity, and drape. The Shirley stiffness tester and Cusick drape tester are described as methods that use cantilever bending principles and projected light areas to objectively measure a fabric's stiffness and draping ability. Factors that influence a fabric's stiffness and drape include yarn twist, fabric cover, thickness, weave, and chemical finishes. Higher twist, cover, and thickness increase stiffness while long floats and certain finishes improve flexibility and drape.
An experimental sample about tear strength testing of a fabric by Elmendorf's Tear Tester. This will helpful for the Textile Engineering student to know the measuring process of tear strength of a fabric.
IRJET- Study of Reed on High Speed Weaving MachinesIRJET Journal
This document discusses reeds used in high-speed weaving machines and how to increase the life of reeds. It begins by explaining what a reed is and how it is constructed. It then discusses the problem of groove formation in reeds, where the dent wires are cut, which decreases reed life. Groove formation commonly occurs within 500 hours and is caused by high tension and abrasion on selvedge ends from the contraction between the reed and woven cloth. Several factors can influence groove formation, including fabric construction, yarn type, loom settings, sizing recipe, and reed construction. The document provides solutions to prevent groove formation, such as selecting the proper reed specifications, temple,
This document summarizes a student project on analyzing the effects of different parameters on spirality in single jersey knitted fabrics. The students measured spirality in fabrics produced under varying machine settings, yarn properties, and fabric constructions. Their results showed that spirality increases with stitch length, yarn count, and the product of count and stitch length. Spirality decreases with higher fabric GSM and tighter fabric construction as measured by tightness factor. Equations were also presented from previous research relating spirality to twist factor, tightness factor, and stitch length.
This document discusses the measurement of fabric weight in grams per square meter (GSM). It explains that GSM is an important specification in the textile industry that indicates how heavy or light a fabric is. It then describes the features and specifications of a GSM cutter, which is a tool used to precisely cut 100 cm2 samples of fabric to determine the GSM by weighing the sample and multiplying by 100. Finally, it provides several methods and formulas for calculating a fabric's GSM both with and without using a GSM cutter based on its construction, sample weights, and dimensions.
Similar to Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) (20)
1. Discuss ‘Indianisation’ of English, citing examples of some major features of Indian English. (20)
2. Give a complete description of the consonants of English. (20)
3. What, in your view, are the most important learner variables in the learning of a second language?
Explain. (20)
4. What do you understand by ‘foregrounding’? Discuss with suitable examples. (20)
5. Write short notes on the following: (20)
a) The function of intonation.
b) Conversion as a morphological device.
1. Discuss the relationship between language and our perception of reality in terms of
linguistic relativity and linguistic determinism.
2. Write short notes on any four of the following, giving examples as far as possible:
i) Changes in the meaning of words from Old to Modern English.
ii) Langue and Parole
iii) Problems in defining a speech community
iv) Code mixing and code switching
v) Status versus Corpus planning
vi) Monism and Dualism
3. What is Theta theory? Which parts of grammar does it affect? Discuss with examples of
your own.
4. Discuss in detail four different approaches of looking at language and society (Unit 1,
Block 6). Highlight the differences between all these approaches.
5. Historically discuss the rise of American English and its chief characteristics
1. Do you think Fielding attempts to correct distortions in human behavior through the
moral view point of Tom Jones? 20
2. Examine the various narrative techniques in Wuthering Heights critically. 20
3. What is your understanding of the Pip – Estella relationship in the Great Expectations?
Illustrate with examples. 20
4. How are the issues of race and imperialism woven into the narrative of the Heart of
Darkness? 20
5. How does Muriel Spark handle time in The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie? 201. As a reader from the Third World can you relate to the events and happenings in
Fielding’s Tom Jones? And would you agree that ‘Tom Jones is so simple that it
makes no great demand on you as a reader’? Discuss with reasons. 20
2. Does modern critical perspective help us understand Wuthering Heights better or does
it just confuse us? Discuss. 20
3. How many women characters are to be found in the Heart of Darkness would you
consider Conrad to be a misogynist? 20
4. Give a detailed note on the three broad movements that defines the structure of A
Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. 20
5. Why do you think Forster shifts the theme of the novel from history to philosophy? 20
1. Would you call the character of Dr. Faustus ‘heroic’? Give reasons for
your answer. (20)
2. Discuss the play within the play in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. (20)
3. What is the importance of Hamlet’s soliloquies in the play? (20)
4. Can The Alchemist be considered an allegory? Give a reasoned answer. (20)
5. Can Eliza in Pygmalion be termed as feminist? Elaborate. (20)
6. What are the comic strategies used in The Playboy of the Western World? (20)
7. Discuss Murder in the Cathedral as a poetic drama. (20)
8. Comment on the title of Look Back in Anger. (20)
9. Discuss Waiting for Godot from the perspective of the theatre of the Absurd. (20)
This document provides information about a book titled "British Poetry" published by Spring Season Publications in India. It includes details such as the publisher, authors, date of first publication in 2020, ISBN number, and copyright information. The book is part of the SPSN series and focuses on British poetry. It contains preface information and a table of contents listing 10 solution series/chapters from June 2015 to December 2019 with sample questions and answers related to British poetry.
4.2 Creativity
4.2.1 Meaning and Aspects of Creativity
4.2.2 Investment and Confluence Theory of Creativity
4.2.3 Aspects of Creativity
4.2.4 Stages of Creativity
4.2.5 Creativity and Intelligence
4.2.6 Measurement of Creativity
4.3 Problem Solving
4.3.1 Terms Related to Problem Solving
4.3.2 Typologies of Problems
4.3.3 Stages of Problem Solving
4.3.4 Strategies of Problem Solving
4.3.4.1 Algorithms
4.3.4.2 Heuristics
4.3.5 Factors Affecting Problem Solving
1.2 Language and Cognition
1.3 Linguistics
1.3.1 The Structure of Language
1.3.2 The Buildings Blocks of Language
1.4 Language Acquisition
1.4.1 Stages of Language Acquisition
1.4.2 Language Acquisition and Cognitive Science
1.4.3 Language and Thought
1.5 Theories of Language Acquisition
1.5.1 Behaviouristic Theory
1.5.2 Limitations of Behaviourism Theory
1.5.3 Innateness Theory
1.5.4 Evidence to Support Innateness Theory
1.5.5 Limitations of Chomsky’s Theory
1.5.6 Cognitive Theory
1.5.7 Limitations of Cognitive Theories
1.5.8 Inputs or Integrationist Theories
1.5.9 Limitations of Inputs Theories
1.6 The Biology of Language Acquisition
1.6.1 Maturational Changes in Brain
1.6.2 Dissociations Between Language and General Intelligence
1.6.3 Neural Networks
The document discusses a new product launch for a company. It outlines key details about the product such as its features, benefits, and target customers. It also provides a high-level timeline for rolling out marketing and sales of the new product.
Mpc 006 - 02-03 partial and multiple correlationVasant Kothari
3.2 Partial Correlation (rp)
3.2.1 Formula and Example
3.2.2 Alternative Use of Partial Correlation
3.3 Linear Regression
3.4 Part Correlation (Semipartial correlation) rsp
3.4.1 Semipartial Correlation: Alternative Understanding
3.5 Multiple Correlation Coefficient (R)
2.2 Special types of Correlation
2.3 Point Biserial Correlation rPB
2.3.1 Calculation of rPB
2.3.2 Significance Testing of rPB
2.4 Phi Coefficient (φ )
2.4.1 Significance Testing of phi (φ )
2.5 Biserial Correlation
2.6 Tetrachoric Correlation
2.7 Rank Order Correlations
2.7.1 Rank-order Data
2.7.2 Assumptions Underlying Pearson’s Correlation not Satisfied
2.8 Spearman’s Rank Order Correlation or Spearman’s rho (rs)
2.8.1 Null and Alternate Hypothesis
2.8.2 Numerical Example: for Untied and Tied Ranks
2.8.3 Spearman’s Rho with Tied Ranks
2.8.4 Steps for rS with Tied Ranks
2.8.5 Significance Testing of Spearman’s rho
2.9 Kendall’s Tau (ô)
2.9.1 Null and Alternative Hypothesis
2.9.2 Logic of Kendall’s Tau and Computation
2.9.3 Computational Alternative for Kendall’s Tau
2.9.4 Significance Testing for Kendall’s Tau
Mpc 006 - 02-01 product moment coefficient of correlationVasant Kothari
1.2 Correlation: Meaning and Interpretation
1.2.1 Scatter Diagram: Graphical Presentation of Relationship
1.2.2 Correlation: Linear and Non-Linear Relationship
1.2.3 Direction of Correlation: Positive and Negative
1.2.4 Correlation: The Strength of Relationship
1.2.5 Measurements of Correlation
1.2.6 Correlation and Causality
1.3 Pearson’s Product Moment Coefficient of Correlation
1.3.1 Variance and Covariance: Building Blocks of Correlations
1.3.2 Equations for Pearson’s Product Moment Coefficient of Correlation
1.3.3 Numerical Example
1.3.4 Significance Testing of Pearson’s Correlation Coefficient
1.3.5 Adjusted r
1.3.6 Assumptions for Significance Testing
1.3.7 Ramifications in the Interpretation of Pearson’s r
1.3.8 Restricted Range
1.4 Unreliability of Measurement
1.4.1 Outliers
1.4.2 Curvilinearity
1.5 Using Raw Score Method for Calculating r
1.5.1 Formulas for Raw Score
1.5.2 Solved Numerical for Raw Score Formula
4.2 Hypothesis Testing
4.3 Null Hypothesis
4.4 Errors in Hypothesis Testing
4.4.1 Basic Experimental Situations in Hypothesis Testing
4.5 Confidence Limits
4.5.1 Meaning and Concept of Level of Significance
4.5.2 Application and Interpretation of Standard Error of the Mean in Small Samples
4.5.3 The Standard Error of a Median, σ Mdn
4.6 Setting up Level of Confidence or Significance
4.6.1 Size of the Sample
4.6.2 Two-tailed and One-tailed Tests of Significance
4.6.3 One Tailed Test
4.7 Steps in Setting up the Level of Significance
4.7.1 Formulating Hypothesis and Stating Conclusions
4.7.2 Types of Errors for a Hypothesis Testing
3.2 Definition and Concepts
3.2.1 Hypothesis Testing
3.2.2 The Core Logic of Hypothesis Testing
3.2.3 The Hypothesis – Testing Process
3.2.4 Implications of Rejecting or Failing to Reject the Null Hypothesis
3.2.5 One-Tailed and Two-Tailed Hypothesis Tests
3.2.6 Decision Errors
3.3 Type I Error
3.4 Type II Error
3.5 Relationship between Type I and Type II Errors
2.5 Meaning of Inferential Statistics
2.5.1 Estimation
2.5.2 Point Estimation
2.5.3 Interval Estimation
2.6 Hypothesis Testing
2.6.1 Statement of Hypothesis
2.6.2 Level of Significance
2.6.3 One Tail and Two Tail Test
2.7 Errors in Hypothesis Testing
2.7.1 Type I Error
2.7.2 Type II Error
2.7.3 Power of a Test
2.8 General Procedure for Testing A Hypothesis
2.0 Introduction
2.1 Objectives
2.2 Meaning of Descriptive Statistics
2.3 Organisation of Data
2.3.1 Classification
2.3.1.1 Frequency Distribution can be with Ungrouped Data and Grouped Data
2.3.1.2 Types of Frequency Distribution
2.3.2 Tabulation
2.3.3 Graphical Presentation of Data
2.3.3.1 Cumulative Frequency Curve or Ogive
2.3.4 Diagrammatic Presentation of Data
2.4 Summarisation of Data
2.4.1 Measures of Central Tendency
2.4.2 Measures of Dispersion
2.4.3 Skewness and Kurtosis
2.4.4 Advantages and Disadvantages of Descriptive Statistics
2.5 Meaning of Inferential Statistics
2.5.1 Estimation
2.5.2 Point Estimation
2.5.3 Interval Estimation
2.6 Hypothesis Testing
2.6.1 Statement of Hypothesis
2.6.2 Level of Significance
2.6.3 One Tail and Two Tail Test
2.7 Errors in Hypothesis Testing
2.7.1 Type I Error
2.7.2 Type II Error
2.7.3 Power of a Test
2.8 General Procedure for Testing A Hypothesis
01 parametric and non parametric statisticsVasant Kothari
Definition of Parametric and Non-parametric Statistics
Assumptions of Parametric and Non-parametric Statistics
Assumptions of Parametric Statistics
Assumptions of Non-parametric Statistics
Advantages of Non-parametric Statistics
Disadvantages of Non-parametric Statistical Tests
Parametric Statistical Tests for Different Samples
Parametric Statistical Measures for Calculating the Difference Between Means
Significance of Difference Between the Means of Two Independent Large and
Small Samples
Significance of the Difference Between the Means of Two Dependent Samples
Significance of the Difference Between the Means of Three or More Samples
Parametric Statistics Measures Related to Pearson’s ‘r’
Non-parametric Tests Used for Inference
Application of Contemporary Fibers in ApparelVasant Kothari
This document provides information on Ingeo fiber, including:
1) Ingeo is a bio-based fiber derived from corn starch that can be processed like polyester.
2) It has properties like moisture wicking, UV resistance, and is softer than synthetic fibers.
3) Ingeo fiber is used in applications like t-shirts, underwear, and outerwear due to its performance and environmental benefits compared to petroleum-based fibers.
This document outlines topics related to fashion merchandising including the functions of a production merchandiser such as communication, coordination, product development, sampling, tech packs, costing, sourcing, timelines, meetings, and post-shipment analysis. The document provides an index of 13 topics on fashion merchandising written by Vasant Kothari.
This document discusses various factors that influence thermal comfort in textiles, including heat balance, heat loss mechanisms, insulation, air permeability, moisture vapor permeability, and waterproofing. It defines key terms and describes methods for measuring properties like thermal conductivity, water vapor permeability, and air permeability that relate to a fabric's ability to regulate heat and moisture transfer. The summary focuses on how these physical textile properties influence the thermal comfort of wearers.
This document provides an overview of visual merchandising concepts and principles. It discusses various exterior store design elements like signs, entrances, windows and structures. It also covers interior principles of design such as balance, emphasis, proportion, rhythm and unity. Specific window structures, lighting rules and display components are explained. The overall purpose of visual merchandising is to attract customers and motivate purchases through visually presenting merchandise.
1. FAST
FABRIC ASSURANCE BY SIMPLE TESTING
[ FAST has been developed by CSIRO in Australia which is designed
to predict the properties of wool and wool blended fabrics that affect
their tailoring performance and the appearance of the tailored
garments in wear.
[ These instruments also give information which can be related to the
fabric handle.
[ Unlike KES-F system, FAST only measures the resistance of fabric
to deformation and not the recovery of the fabric from deformation.
[ However, the FAST system is much cheaper, simpler and more
robust than the KES-F system, and, as such, perhaps more suited to an
industrial environment.
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2. N FAST can predict how a fabric will perform when made up into a
garment – an information of importance for fabric manufactures,
suppliers, finishers and garment makers.
N FAST consist of three instruments and a test methods:
ž FAST – 1 : Compression Meter
ž FAST – 2 : Bending Meter
ž FAST – 3 : Extension Meter
ž FAST – 4 : Dimensional Stability Test
N Test results from FAST – 1, - 2 and – 3 can be recorded instantly
and automatically, FAST – 4 results are recorded manually.
N The results are plotted on a control chart to provide a Fabric
Fingerprint, which indicates weather the tested fabric will be
suitable for the intended end use.
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3. Parameters Measured and Calculated on the FAST system
Instrument Measurement Parameters Symbol Units Predicts Problem In
Fabric Thickness T mm Pressing
(Finish Stability)
FAST 1 Compression Fabric Surface thickness ST mm
Released Surface thickness STR mm
Warp bending length W1 mm Cutting
Weft bending length W2 mm Automated Handling
FAST 2 Bending Warp bending rigidity B1 uNm
Weft bending rigidity B2 uNm
Formability F mm2 Seam Pucker
Warp extensibility E100 -1 % Laying up, pattern
FAST 3 Tensile Weft extensibility E100 -2 % Matching, Moulding
Extension Over feed seams,
Shear rigidity G N/m Sleeve insertion
Warp relaxation shrinkage RS – 1 % Sizing, Seam pucker,
Weft relaxation shrinkage RS – 2 % Pleating
FAST 4 Fabric
Dimensions Warp Hygral expansion HE – 1 %
Weft Hygral expansion HE – 2 % App. Loss, Pleating
Chemical Weight Fabric Weight per unit area W g/m2
Balance
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4. COMPRESSION METER FAST - 1
FAST-1 is a compression meter which measures the thickness of the fabric
under two fixed loads.
First the fabric is measured under a load of 2g/cm2.
and then again under a load of 100g/cm2.
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5. z The fabric thickness is measured on a 10cm 2 area at two different
pressures, firstly at 2gf/cm2 (19.6mN/cm2) and then at 100gf/cm2
(981mN/cm 2) using the apparatus shown.
z This gives a measure of the thickness of the surface layer which is
defined as the difference between these two values.
z The fabric is considered to consist of an incompressible core and a
compressible surface.
z The fabric thickness measurements are repeated after steaming on an
open Hoffman press for 30s in order to determine the stability of the
surface layer.
Fabric Surface Thickness (ST)
= Difference betn thickness measured at
2 & 100 g/cm2
Released Surface Thickness (STR)
= Difference betn
relaxed ST & ST
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6. The difference between these two
thicknesses is a measure of the
amount of compressible fibre, or "pile"
on the surface of the fabric and is
know as the Surface Thickness of the
fabric.
Further measurements are taken after
the fabric has been steamed to obtain
a value known as Released Surface
Thickness
œ Thickness and Surface Thickness do not themselves have any great
impact upon the tailoring performance of a fabric but are useful indicators
of any change or variation in fabric handle.
œ If however the value of Surface Thickness is assessed against the
value of Released Surface Thickness, then the results assume much
greater significance
œ A big difference between, thickness measured at 2 & 100 g/cm 2, these
two values indicates that the finish on the fabric is unstable and is likely to
come off during the final pressing operation.
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7. BENDING METER FAST - 2
± FAST-2 is a bending Meter which is used to measure the stiffness or
conversely, the flexibility of a fabric.
± The instrument works on the cantilever principle, which involves
pushing a fabric over a vertical edge until it has bent to a specified angle
(41.5o).
± Stiff fabric will need pushing further to bend to this angle, whereas a
flexible, or limp one will fall quickly.
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8. ♪ The bending rigidity, which is related to the perceived stiffness, is
calculated from the bending length and mass/unit area.
♪ Fabrics with low bending rigidity may exhibit seam pucker and are
prone to problems in cutting out.
♪ They are difficult to handle on an automated production line.
♪ A fabric with a higher bending rigidity may be more manageable during
sewing, resulting in a flat seam but may cause problems during moulding,
as it is stiffer .
where C is bending length and M is mass per unit area.
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9. EXTENSION METER FAST - 3
! FAST-3 is an extension Meter which measures the amount (in per cent)
that a fabric will stretch under three fixed low loadings (5, 20 & 100g/cm).
! Fabrics are measured at all three loads in the warp and weft directions
and (at the lowest load only) in a bias direction of 45o.
! Bias extension is converted to Shear Rigidity which is directly related to
fabric looseness.
! Both high and low values of Extensibility can have serious consequences
if the Garment Maker is not aware of them.
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10. Low Extensibility can lead to:
d Difficulties in producing Overfed
Seams
d Problems in Moulding
d Seam Pucker
High Extensibility can lead to:
d The fabric being stretched during
laying-up, causing the cut panels to
shrink when they are removed from
the cutting table.
d Problems in matching patterned
fabrics, such as checks
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11. DERIVED PROPERTIES
y Some values of produced by FAST are not measured directly but are
calculated using a combination of values from different FAST instruments
and in some cases using Mathematical Constants.
y These properties are known as Derived properties because they are
not directly measured by any one instrument.
y Bending Rigidity, described earlier, is a derived property because in
addition to the Bending Length, fabric weight is brought into the
calculation.
y The measurements obtained from FAST-3 are important in calculating
two further derived values, Formability and Shear Rigidity.
y Extensibility is used in conjunction with the value for Bending
Rigidity to calculate the Formability of the fabric.
y Shear Rigidity is a measure of the ease with which a fabric can be
distorted in a "Trellissing" action and is calculated from the Bias
Extensibility measured on FAST-3.
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12. FORMABILITY
»Formability is calculated using values obtained from both FAST-2 and
FAST-3.
» It can be described in scientific terms as "a measure of the ability of a
fabric to absorb compression in its own plane without buckling".
» In practical terms, this type of compression is imposed upon the fabric
by a combination of thread size, needle size, thread tension and stitch
rate; a fabric which buckles easily under these types of force will form
Puckered Seams.
» Formability is a direct indicator of the likelihood of Seam Pucker
occurring either during or after sewing.
Low Formability = Tendency to
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13. SHEAR RIGIDITY
Shear Rigidity is a measure of
the ease with which a fabric can
be distorted in a "Trellissing"
action and is calculated from the
Bias Extensibility measured on
FAST-3.
S Low Shear Rigidity means that the fabric will be easily distorted in
laying-up, marking and cutting.
S High Shear Rigidity means that the fabric will be difficult to form into
smooth three-dimensional shapes, causing problems in moulding and
sleeve insertion. Drape may also be affected.
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14. DIMENTIONAL STABILITY TEST
FAST - 4
X FAST-4 is not an instrument but a test method, used to calculate the
Dimensional Stability of the fabric.
X In the test (which requires a laboratory oven), the fabric is subjected
to a cycle of drying, wetting and then drying again.
X After each stage the fabric’s dimensions in both warp and weft are
measured.
X The results give valuable information to the garment maker as to
how the dimensions of a fabric will change when exposed to moisture.
X The test method enables the Dimensional Stability properties of the
fabric to be split into to clearly identifiable components whose cause
and effect are quite different.
XThese are: Relaxation Shrinkage and Hygral Expansion.
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15. HYGRAL EXPANSION
Hygral Expansion is the reversible
change in the dimension of the fabric that
occurs when the moisture content of the
fibres is altered. Using FAST, Hygral
Expansion is defined as the percentage
change in dimensions of the relaxed
fabric from wet to dry.
¹ This effect displays its most serious consequence as loss of appearance.
Panels constrained by seams try to grow but have nowhere to grow into, with
resultant loss of shape and in extreme cases, bubbling and delamination of
fused panels.
¹ This type of problem typically occurs when garments are made in areas of
low humidity, such as the UK, and exported to or worn in very humid climates
such as those in much of Asia. Fabrics with high levels of Hygral Expansion
also cause problems in pleating.
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17. F During finishing, most fabrics are dried under tension, which is not
released until the fabric is next exposed to moisture.
F This typically takes place at the final pressing stage of garment
manufacture.
F The result is that the fabric reverts to its original dimensions and
shrinkage takes place.
F If this shrinkage is excessive, cut panels may well change their
original dimensions, leading to garment sizing difficulties.
F In addition, excessive Relaxation Shrinkage may well result in the
formation of puckered seams in final pressing.
F Most garment makers require a small amount of Relaxation
Shrinkage to be present in a fabric in order to shrink out any residual
fullness in the garment during final pressing.
F If a fabric is to be pleated then a certain amount of relation
shrinkage must be present in the fabric in order to prevent bubbling in
the pleat formation process.
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18. FAST Chart
The whole of the results
are plotted on a chart, shown
in Fig., which is similar to the
chart produced by the KESF
system.
The shaded areas show
regions where the fabric
properties are likely to cause
problems in garment
manufacture.
These limits have been
determined from experience
and apply only to the
worsted suitings for which
the system was originally
designed.
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19. USES OF FAST
FAST can tell how a fabric will perform.
Fabric Fingerprints can be used for..
♠ fabric specifications
♠ developing new fabrics
♠ comparing fabric finishing routs
♠ assessing stability of finished fabric
♠ predicting tailoring performance &
♠ predicting final garment appearance.
Abnormal Fabric Fingerprints point to potential problem
areas. Fast can pin-point these areas and enable one to adjust the
procedures before the problems become serious.
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